Ise Kawasaki: A traditional merchant town where you can delve into the history of Ise

Written by Lisa Wallin

The Ise Kawasaki quarter flourished in the Edo period (1603-1868) due to its prime location along the Seta River and its proximity to Ise Jingu. Because it was accessible by both land and water, it became a commercial hub to supply goods to pilgrims to the shrine. This vibrant area boasted over 100 warehouses selling important items like rice, sake, sugar, salt and more. It eventually earned the nickname Ise’s Kitchen because of its importance. Today, much of the Ise Kawasaki quarter looks the same as it did almost 300 years ago, surviving World War II bombings.  Keep your eyes peeled for streets lined with buildings in the “kiritsuma/tsuma-iri” style, which is characteristic of Ise-Kawasaki. This is an architectural style that has the triangular roof gables facing the road. The onigawara (Japanese gargoyle roof tiles) in the center of the roof are also magnificent, with each house having its own unique style. Explore the area on foot or bicycle as you encounter snippets of daily local life between the shops, cafés, and museums here. 

Start your exploration of Ise Kawasaki at Ise Kawasaki Shoninkan, the Merchant Museum. This old complex offers a fascinating look into what life was like there in the old days. The property is a restoration of the “Ogawa Liquor Shop” building, a long-established sake shop founded about 300 years ago. As one of Kawasaki’s representative merchant houses, it was designated as a Tangible Cultural Property in 2001. Signs of the owner’s wealth are visible through the elaborate designs and traditional tea room and adjoining garden in the main abode. The warehouses in the back display intriguing historical tools and documents related to Ise Kawasaki. The warehouses are also used as galleries and event spaces. Be sure to check out the showcase featuring original examples of Japan’s oldest paper currency, the Yamada Hagaki. 
Ise Kawasaki Shoninkan is also home to S Cider, a sweet soda drink first made in 1909. It uses the same ingredients (only sugar, flavoring, and acidulants), and the labels and bottles are based on the original designs.

Some warehouses across from Ise Kawasaki Shoninkan have been renovated and converted into  gallery and shop spaces that house several miniature stores and display cases. Here you’ll find unique handmade souvenirs, vintage toys, and other paraphernalia, as well as clothing and fashionable accessories. The fascinating variety of items will be sure to grab your attention. 

Translating to “Merchant Warehouse” café, Shoningura Café is a charming space with exposed wooden beams and a window facing the Seta River. Stop by for a quiet break and enjoy a coffee and cake set and immerse yourself in the inviting atmosphere. You’ll find traditional crafts and organic foods for sale here, as well as the refreshing S Cider mentioned earlier.

Want more? Here are some more must-see stops in the area, but you’re guaranteed to find many more charming shops and restaurants as you wander around.

Kawabe Nanakusa Shrine: This serene shrine is a short distance away from Ise Kawasaki’s main street, but well worth a visit. Highlights include the giant camphor tree, which is said to be over 500 years old, and the vermillion torii gate tunnel leading to Yoshiie Inari Shrine on the grounds.

Sakatoku Kombu: Founded in 1912, this kombu kelp shop has a wide variety of products, including hand-shaved oboro kelp. 

Tsutaya: An udon shop serving the local Ise specialty — thick noodles in a slightly sweet soy sauce-based broth. It’s a great place for a casual meal. 

Tsumugiya: A Japanese-style guesthouse inside a renovated 100-year-old merchant house. Both dormitory-style and private rooms are available. (Temporarily closed.)

Hoshidekan: A beautiful traditional inn built during the 1910-20s, Hoshidekan offers an immersive Japanese inn experience and serves elaborate Japanese meals.