Kumano Kodo Iseji Route and Photogenic Spots in Kumano

Written by Pete Leong

The Kumano area has been an object of worship for people since ancient times, and many people have visited the three grand shrines collectively called “Kumano Sanzan.” The “Kumano Sanzan” and several pilgrimage routes in the mountains are registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.” The Kumano Kodo is sometimes thought to be a single road, but in fact, there are several pilgrimage routes making up this historic trail.

One of them is the Kumano Kodo Iseji Route. It starts from Ise Jingu Shrine and goes south along the sea to Kumano Sanzan, a distance of about 170 km. On this trip, I visited a few places in this sacred area where you can see some wonderful scenery.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CVjM3Y0PIqr/
Photo by @sana0211

This time we stayed at a hotel called Seiryuso, located in the mountains of Kumano City. About a 20-minute drive from here along a bumpy gravel mountain trail is a spectacular lookout spot called Tsueno Peak. The altitude is 645 meters high, and there is a viewpoint in the middle of the mountain. From here, you can enjoy the view surrounded by mountains. It is famous among photographers for the sea of clouds that can be seen in the early morning from autumn to winter.

I woke up early to make my way up this morning to see the “unkai” (sea of clouds), but unfortunately there were no clouds this day. There was however a beautiful view of the sun rising up over the mountain ridges and a clear view out to the ocean between mountain peaks.

The temperature was around zero degrees up at this altitude early in the morning, so I was glad I had remembered to bring gloves and a down jacket.
A few other visitors showed up just in time for the sunrise and it was wonderful to feel the warmth from the sun as it rose into the sky revealing a majestic landscape in front of us. I rushed to get my drone up in the air while also setting up other cameras for time-lapse videos as well. I noticed there were some wind socks along the clearing marking a take-off spot for hand gliders. It would have been great to see them launching from the mountain lit with the morning glow. I’ll be back again to try and catch them along with the “sea of clouds” on another, future trip. Nonetheless, it was a great way to start the day and a wonderful view of the mountains and town way down below.

Maruyama Senmaida is a terraced rice field that can be seen from Tsueno Peak. The rice fields are built in a staircase shape on the slope of the mountain. It is one of the largest terraced rice fields in Japan and has been selected as one of Japan’s “top 100 terraced rice-fields.” I didn’t visit this trip, but I’ve been there before in the summer and it is well worth a stop-by. Especially if you can make it for the sunset time when the fields bask in the late afternoon golden light. Follow the winding road up through the rice fields to find some great lookout points with small car parks. There is also a trail winding its way around the fields if you feel like taking a stroll. I had only envisioned this kind of scenery being in the Philippines, so I was excited to see it here in Japan as well. For any photographers, this is a great spot to add some dramatic landscape shots to your portfolio.

Magose-toge Pass is located about an hour’s drive north of Tsueno Peak. This trail, which is about 5 km long, is a part of the Kumano Kodo Iseji Route where the stone-paved path is particularly well preserved. It rains a lot in this area, and the cobblestones are said to have prevented the trail from collapsing due to erosion.

I have done a lot of hiking in my time but none quite so mysterious and historic as this trail. Climbing up along the stone path I felt like I could have just stepped back hundreds of years to when pilgrims first made their long journey through this forest on their way to Kumano Sanzan. It was lovely to see the absolutely pristine forest all around, while inhaling the scent of the towering cypress trees. The trail was a gradual climb up the stone steps and past small shrines and waterfalls to a rest area where we were greeted with great views out over the valley and across to the other surrounding mountains. The perfect spot for a picnic lunch, to relax, and to catch my breath.

Along the way, there is a small statue known as “Yonaki Jizo-son” surrounded by stones. It is said that it was originally placed there to pray for the safety of people walking along the path. Be careful if you venture far off the path. I slipped off some wet rocks while taking photos of a small waterfall and ended up with wet hiking boots.

Last but not least, I was able to take some photos of something modern but not related to the Kumano Kodo. Near Seiryuso where we stayed a night, there was a mine called Kiwa Mine, and the mining ruins are still there. They make for an interesting place to explore and for an interesting subject for photography. By the time I was able to visit the area it was already dark and there was construction going on in front of the ruins, so I was not able to get up too close. Then I set up my tripod and camera in a nearby car park to take a few shots of the old mine. When there is no nearby construction going on, you are able to walk up a long set of stairs next to the ruins to get a closer look at this fascinating old structure.

This time, my friend and I toured the area by ourselves, but there are also walking tours available around the Magose-toge Pass where you can listen to a guide’s commentary. If you want to learn more about the history of this area, it would be a good idea to join a guided tour.

No matter how many times I visit the Kumano area, I always come away with a feeling of relaxation and a longing to return again to explore more of the area.