Tokaido: Old Golden Route in Japan. Touring Sekijuku and Akari Candle Shop

Written by Chad Martin

－Author's Introduction
My otaku side brought me toNagoya, Japan in 2012, but I stayed for the food, countryside towns, andgorgeous mountain scenery. I was born and raised on the east coast of theUS, but I dare say I never grew up. I never shut up about Japan.

While there are those that come to Japan to see the bustling mega-cities, the quiet countryside towns that have resisted the change of centuries will always be the most memorable places to me.
These villages, many with dwindling populations, offer so much genuine experience for the overseas traveler.

Sekijuku is a small village located in Kameyama City, Mie Prefecture.
It lies along the Tokaido, an ancient road that travelers of the past used to move between Kyoto and Edo (present day Tokyo).
Towns like Sekijuku were vital places for trade and for weary travelers to get a bit of respite, as the typical means of traveling was not on horseback or horse-drawn cart, but 514 kilometers on foot.

The city was quiet enough to hear the melting snow drip off of the rooftops, interrupted only by the occasional compact car gingerly coasting through the town. 

I took my time strolling down the streets, taking pictures of countless quaint displays, things that are probably insignificant to the locals, but very memorable to an outsider.

Heading down to Akari, a local handmade candle shop, we were welcomed inside and given a wide variety of candles to make.
A daunting challenge at first, but it was warm inside and the prices very reasonable.

After much deliberation, and despite it being out of season, I opted to make a “kakigori” (a Japanese shaved-ice dessert) candle.

A hapless man struggles to carefully make a candle look like the sloppiest dessert in Japan.

All the materials were prepared for me. I could choose the color, scent and even little wax accessories to personalize my candle. 
While assured by the staff that my candle was better than the staff could make.

I think my raspberry-scented kakigori candle with little ice cream cones and hearts all over it looked like an elementary school art project. But you know what? 
It burns and smells good. Huzzah for functionality!

The gel candles looked really nice. 
Of course, if you have no faith in your ability to pour liquid wax into another container, you can always purchase a wide variety of candles and other goods directly.

Across the street, there was a bit of commotion as I left the Akari Candle Shop. 
It turned out to just be two lively older gentlemen having a spirited conversation about--you guessed it--carpentry!

One of them was a master carpenter, the most recent in a very long line of carpenters in this town who have been making wooden buckets and other useful items for well over a hundred years. 

The craftsmen in many small towns across Japan pride themselves similarly.
Their trade may seem very specific or outdated to some.
But they pride themselves in plying the same trade as their ancestors, and in being a true master of something quite difficult. 

I watched the old man, with impressive precision, shave a plank of wood down to just the right angle so that along with other planks, it would fit tightly and make a bucket with a small base, widening toward the top.

A master carpenter proudly shows off an old book of records kept by a relative over a hundred years ago.

Just as sharp as his tools was his wit. Even though I could barely understand anything he said, I did get that he was poking fun at me for being “a Japanese-sized American” before I had hardly introduced myself. Evidently his “humor” has gotten him in awkward situations before...

As I left the area, I noticed a gem I had missed on the way in.
Sometimes in smaller towns, particularly towns nestled in the mountains, a communal watering hole of sorts exists.
These are “ashiyu”, small hot springs at which you can rest your tired feet in the warm waters to rejuvenate body and spirits.
Or, if you’re like the ladies I met, you come every day to socialize and take in the sunset. It was certainly something I could get used to.

They weren’t shy at all about chatting with a random foreigner sharing the warm waters.
Although, they spoke little English aside from basic greetings.
Of course, one does occasionally run into a Japanese elder who “doesn’t see” race and will tell you a story whether or not you understand a lick of it.

As the sun set on my day in Sekijuku, the mountains cut a stark outline against the pink evening sky.
As complete a day trip as one can hope for. Come see authentic mountain village life first hand.

From Nagoya, you can get to Sekijuku by highway bus or the JR Kansai Line. The highway bus is quicker and cheaper. You can also get there from Osaka Station. Be sure to plan your route accordingly and always think of the ride through the countryside as part of the adventure. 

For details
http://akari.strikingly.com/
https://www.kankomie.or.jp/spot/detail_1840.html