From Kumano City to the Kumano Kodo: An Abundance of Natural Wonders

The area around Kumano City is packed with incredible things to see and do, from the ancient cobblestone hiking trails of Kumano Kodo to the unusual Onigajo rock formations, the historic Hana no Iwaya Shrine, and the must-see Maruyama Senmaida Terraced Rice Paddies. It makes for a highly satisfying one-day tour.

Written by Adam Douglas

Kumano Kodo: Matsumoto-toge Pass

I had always wanted to hike the network of pilgrimage trails of the Kumano Kodo in Kumano City. My route formed a loop, starting at the Onigajo Center, heading up to Matsumoto-toge Pass, enjoying the view of Shichiri Mihama Beach from the pavilion, and then returning to Onigajo.

The route is 4.1-kilometers long, reaching a maximum elevation of 135 meters, and as someone with little hiking experience, I found it enjoyable even for a beginner like myself.

Kumano Kodo is famous for its forested cobblestone trails, and I loved soaking up the serene atmosphere. Being a fan of Japanese history, I could imagine myself as a religious pilgrim from the samurai era.

At the peak of the mountain, I came across a statue of Jizo, the guardian deity of travelers. I was surprised to learn that a hunter once mistook the statue for a ghost and shot at it!

Walking on the trail, I marveled at the cobblestones beneath my feet. Each stone had a unique shape, unlike the precut, patterned cobblestones we see today, and I could clearly feel the stonework from a different era.

From there, I reached a pavilion with a breathtaking, unobstructed view of Shichiri Mihama Beach below.

After taking in the scenery, I followed the trail back down to Onigajo.

Onigajo and Lunch

I have always been fascinated by castles and Japanese folklore creatures, especially Oni. Similar to ogres, Oni are fearsome beings, but they are often depicted with red or blue skin and pointed horns. So I was thrilled to see Onigajo, the Castle of the Oni! This massive rock formation, shaped by years of wind and waves, certainly looked like the kind of place that ogres might live in.

After all the hiking, I was hungry, so I stopped at the Onigajo Center for lunch. The restaurant offers a lovely view of the sea, and the gift shop sells souvenirs like Niihime (a sour citrus fruit) products, and a delicious Mihama Mikan Juice.

Hana no Iwaya Shrine

Next on my list was Hana no Iwaya Shrine, a place I find even more fascinating than castles or monsters. Although it is said to be one of Japan’s oldest shrines, it actually doesn’t even have a building! Instead, you pray to a 45-meter-tall boulder, which serves as the repository for the god. What a fascinating concept!

Shishi-iwa

My next stop was another unique rock called Shishi-iwa, or Lion Rock. This famous boulder is said to resemble a lion roaring into the sea. At the top of the cliff, it does look like the king of the jungle, with his mouth open mid-roar. Talk about an impactful site. Legend has it the rock was placed here to guard the nearby Oma-jinja Shrine.

In summer, the area hosts a big fireworks festival. It must be incredible to watch fireworks exploding over the beach with the roaring lion as a backdrop.

Maruyama Senmaida Terraced Rice Paddies

Terraced rice fields are among Japan’s most captivating landscapes. I was excited to discover that one of the country’s best examples, Maruyama Senmaida, is just a 30-minute drive from the Onigajo area.

The trip was absolutely worth it. The hillside is dotted with 1,340 rice paddies, with a height difference of 160 meters from bottom to top. There’s nothing like this where I’m from, making it truly a sight to behold.

Mehari-Zushi (Sushi)

With some extra time at hand, I decided to try making a local Kumano sushi specialty called Mehari-zushi. When you think of sushi, you probably imagine raw fish on rice. But Mehari-zushi is different. It’s more like onigiri, the famous Japanese rice ball, but instead of nori seaweed, it’s wrapped in pickled mustard leaf. It had a uniquely refreshing flavor, one that I was glad to try.

Wrap-up
My day in Kumano City came to an end far too quickly. I was having such a wonderful time that I barely noticed the hours slipping by. Reflecting on all I had seen today, from the cobblestone trails of the Kumano Kodo, to the massive rocks of Onigajo, Hana no Iwaya Shrine, Shishi-iwa, and the terraced rice fields of Maruyama Senmaida, I felt refreshed to the core and deeply satisfied. Although this visit was just for a day, I'm already looking forward to staying overnight next time to discover even more of the beauty and tranquility that Kumano City has to offer.